How to Sew a Lined Cargo Style Pocket

I wanted to add a front pocket to my Barbour inspired laptop bag as I thought it would provide an ornamental detail as well as being practical, see Make It: Sew a Barbour Inspired Laptop Bag. The main issue I had was that I couldn’t find a tutorial or a pattern for a lined cargo style pocket or a pouch pocket that suited my purpose, therefore I had to make it up myself. I apologise if it is a bit of a convoluted method but I thought I would share it anyway.

The pattern pieces

The table below details the sizes of the fabric pieces that I cut.

Pocket BodyTweed
Facing
Fleece
Front cut 1 of each - 18x12 cm
Sides cut 2 of each - 12x7.5 cm
Bottom cut 1 of each - 18x7.5 cm
Pocket LiningDenimCut 1 – 19x 13 cm
Cut 1 – 29x17.5 cm
Pocket FlapTweed
Facing
Fleece
Cut 2 of tweed – 18.6 x 13 cm
Cut 1 of facing & fleece – 18.6 x 13 cm

Prepare the fabric pieces

How to sew a lined pouch pocket: add piping
Attach piping

 

  • Attach the bottom section of the tuck lock to the centre of the front pocket piece.

 

Sew a lined pouch pocket - tuck lock
Attach the bottom section of the tuck lock

Construct the pocket

  • Sew a 1.5 cm SA unless stated otherwise.
  • Sew the pocket sides to the bottom RST. Take the time to match the checks.
  • Sew the gusset to the pocket front RST. Take the time to match the checks. Sew as close to the piping as possible.
  • Turn the pocket right side out and see how close the stitching is to the piping and whether you can see any of the raw edges. Go back and sew over areas where the piping is a bit loose.
How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Sew the gusset to the front
How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Sew the gusset to the front
How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Match the checks

Attach the lining to the pocket

  • Attach the largest piece of lining (29 x 17.5 cm) to the pocket along the top edge (RST)

 

How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Attach the lining

 

  • Topstitch the lining along the top edge to prevent it from rolling out. Don’t stitch over the piping.
  • Baste the lining to the tweed along the 3 outer edges WST.

 

How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Baste lining to the three outer edges
  • Attach the smaller piece of lining (19 x 13 cm) to the back of the constructed pocket RST
    How to sew a lined pouch pocket
    Attach the smaller piece of lining
    How to sew a lined pouch pocket
    Attach the smaller piece of lining
    How to sew a lined pouch pocket
    Attach the smaller piece of lining

    Construct the flap

    • Pin the two flap pieces RST, be sure to match the checks.
    • Stitch the two pieces together along the 3 piped edges. Leave the top edge open.
    • Turn the flap right side out.
How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Construct the flap

 

  • Topstitch the top edge closed.
  • Attach the second part of the tuck lock to the flap. Double check that it is in line with the section you added to the pocket in a previous step.

 

How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Attach the tuck lock

Attach the pocket to the bag

    • Place and pin the pocket over the designated area. Ensure the checks are matching.
    • Edgestitch in place. I used my standard machine foot. To stitch neatly I lined the centre marker of the foot with the edge of the fabric and set the needle position to the left.

 

Hw to sew a lined pouch pocket
Edgestitch in lace

 

  • Place the flap above the pocket. Pin in place.

 

How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Pin the flap
  • Stitch the flap to the bag front RST. Trim the seam allowance.
  • Fold and press the flap down in the finished position.
  • Topstitch 6mm from the folded edge. This stitching sets the flap in place and completely encloses the seam allowance.
How to sew a lined pouch pocket
Topstitch 6mm from the folded edge

Finally!

Here is the finished pocket and I think it looks pretty smart. I hope the tutorial makes sense, but if not post your questions and I will get back to you as soon as I can.

 

Finished lined pouch pocket
Finished lined pocket