How to Sew a Partial Button Placket
I thought I would write this tutorial after sewing a partial placket as part of my Givenchy inspired rugby dress. Overall I was pretty happy with the result as it created the sporty vibe I was going for and it wasn’t too challenging either. So read on to find out how to incorporate one into your garment!
FYI: This placket is designed to be sewn in conjunction with a collar.
What is a partial placket?
A placket refers to the fabric that is used to reinforce the area where the buttons and buttonholes are placed. A partial placket stops midway into the garment and does not run all the way from the neckline to the hem. Although the purpose is to help you to take on or off your clothing they can also be a great design feature. For example, you could make it stand out by using a contrasting fabric or allow it to blend in by using the same fabric as the rest of the garment.
Cut out your fabric pieces:
You will need to cut out 2 rectangles from your fabric, one for the under placket and one for the top placket. The rectangles will both have the same width but will each have different lengths.
My final placket will be 35 cm x 4 cm however you can vary these dimensions based on your design.
The maths …
- The width of the rectangles: 2 x (desired width of final placket + SA).
- In my example I will be using a 1 cm SA.
- So the width of my fabric strip will be 2 x (4 cm + 1 cm) = 10 cm
- The length of the under placket fabric piece: desired length of final placket + 1.5 cm tail.
- Therefore, the length of my under placket was 35 cm + 1.5 cm = 36.5 cm
- The length of the top placket fabric piece: desired length of final placket + 5 cm tail.
- As a result, the length of my under placket was 35 cm + 5 cm = 40 cm
Cut out the interfacing:
You will need to use interfacing to provide some stability to the placket. You will need to cut 2 rectangles, one for each placket piece. The interfacing should be the same length as the fabric pieces but half the width.
- The width of the interfacing: desired width of final placket + SA
- So the width of my interfacing was 4 cm + 1cm = 5 cm
My fabric pieces:
- I cut 2 rectangles from my fabric one was 10 cm x 36.5 cm in size and the other was 10 cm x 40 cm .
- I cut 2 rectangles from my interfacing one was 5 cm x 36.5 cm in size and the other was 5 cm x 40 cm
Cut the neckline opening
This is the scary bit …. You have to cut into the garment!
- First you need to find the centre front of your garment. The easiest way to do this is to fold it in half lengthwise and press. Try to make sure that the shoulders, arm holes and waist etc match up as closely as possible.
- To mark the position of the opening you need to draw a line each side to the centre fold. To determine the distance of these lines from the fold use this formula: (½ width of finished placket – SA).
- As my placket width is 4 cm and my SA is 1 cm, I will be drawing a parallel line 1 cm each side of the centre fold.
- The length of this line should be 1.5 cm shorter than the final desired length of the placket.
- Cut along the marked lines.
- For my dress I cut out a rectangle that was 2 cm x 33.5 cm for my opening.
- When you fold back the 1 cm SA at each edge the placket opening will extend to 4 cm in width.
- Clip into the corners at the bottom of the opening. Stay within the seam allowance. This will form a small tab.
Now it’s time to start sewing!
Unless stated otherwise I will be sewing with a 1 cm SA
- Before you start sewing you need to apply the interfacing to the WS of the fabric pieces. The edge of the interfacing should line up with the centre fold line.
- To make sewing easier, press the placket in half along the fold line RST and press the seam allowances (of the long edges) to the WS.
Start with the under placket
- Place the garment on the table with the wrong side up. Pin the RS of the under placket to the WS of the garment opening.
- Stitch. Start at the neckline and stop 1.5 cm from the end of the rectangular fabric piece. This means you will have sewn the entire length of the opening.
- Press the SA into the placket. Press the clipped tab down onto the WS of the garment.
- Turn the entire placket to the RS of the garment.
- Fold the placket in half and pin the folded outer edge to the garment (the edge which you pressed the SA to the WS). This edge should go just past the original stitch line. All the seam allowances should be enclosed.
- Topstitch in place along the folded outer edge. Stop 1.5 cm from the bottom. Be careful not to catch the clipped tab.
Repeat this process for the top placket.
- Press the bottom of the placket under by 1.5 cm to the WS.
- Place the garment on the table with the wrong side up. Pin the RS of the top placket to the WS of the garment opening. Stitch in place, but be sure to stop 3.5 cm from the bottom .
- Press the clipped tab to the RS of the garment
- Turn the placket to the RS of the garment.
- Topstitch the placket closed as before.
- Stop stitching 3.5 cm before the bottom.
- Ensure all the SA are enclosed.
- Make sure you keep the under placket out of the way whilst stitching.
- On the RS of the garment sew the clipped tab to the tail of the under placket.
- On the RS of the garment cover under placket with the top placket and pin in place. There should be a clean finish on the WS.
- Stitch the top placket in place.
- Sew across the bottom of the placket and across the end of the opening through the tail of the under placket.
- For a more decorative finish sew in the shape of a box and a cross.
Overall I think it looks pretty good. Unfortunately the finish on the inside of the dress is a bit messy.