How to Sew a Lined Patch Pocket

Patch pockets are really simple to create as they are sewn onto the outside of the garment rather than being included in seam allowances or linings e.g. shirt pockets. They can be made in any shape that you choose, although in my example I will be making square shaped pockets. Adding a lining is great as it hides all the seam allowances (which is useful when you have a fabric that frays) and it isn’t any more effort!

Have a look at my Givenchy inspired rugby dress to see how I used my lined patch pocket.

Draw the pattern:

The pattern is essentially compose of 2 rectangles – one for the outer and one for the lining.

The dimensions of the finished pocket will be 10 cm x 10 cm.

For my pattern I will be using a 1.5 cm SA and a 4.5 cm hem allowance.

For the outer draw a rectangle with the dimensions:

(Final pocket height + SA + hem allowance) x (Final pocket width + SA + SA)

So for my pocket this will be (10 cm + 1.5 cm + 4.5 cm) x (10 cm + 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm) = 16cm x 13 cm

For the lining draw a rectangle with the dimensions:

(Final height + SA) x (Final width + SA + SA)

So for my lining this will be (10 cm + 1.5 cm) x (10 cm + 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm) = 11.5cm x 13 cm

The diagram below may make this a bit clearer!!!

pattern for a lined patch pocket
Pattern

Cut out your fabric pieces

You can make your pockets a design feature by cutting them out of a contrasting fabric to the rest of the garment.  Additionally, if working with stripes or a directional pattern you could cut the pockets on a different grainline to that of the main garment. This will make them stand out.

I chose to line the pocket with the same fabric as the outer. However, you could always line with a contrasting fabric.

I applied interfacing to the WS of the pocket outer and the WS of the lining.

sew a lined patch pocket
The fabric pieces

Sew the pocket

  • Press the SA on the top edge of the lining to the WS.
Sew a lined patch pocket
Press the top edge of the lining to the WS
  • Pin the lining to the pocket fabric, RST.  Line up the bottom and the side edges.
  • Fold the hem allowance over the top of the lining. Press in place. Pin in place along the side edges.
  • Sew around the edges of the pocket.
    • Sew along the 2 side and bottom edges, this will secure the folded hem allowance in place.
    • Make sure you sew sharp corners 1.5 cm from the bottom edge. You could always mark them with chalk or a water soluble marker to help you see when you are approaching this point.
sew a lined patch pocket
Sew along the edges
  • Clip the corners to remove bulk, but be careful not to cut through the stitching. This will help you to achieve smart pointed corners.
sew a lined patch pocket
Clip the corners
  • Press seams open
  • Turn through to the RS. Take your time to ease out the corners and get a sharp point. Avoid using a pin as you don’t want to ruin the stitching, instead try rolling the seam between your fingers.
  • Press the pocket to get sharp edges.
  • Close the opening.
    • If you don’t want a visible stitching line you could use a blind stitch. However, I used a twin needle to achieve a more decorative finish.

Attach the pocket

Pin the pocket to the dress. Topstitch in place.

  • Before sewing, I pinned it in place and then tried on the dress. This allowed me to check that I was happy with the positioning.
  • To make sure my topstitching was even I aligned the pocket edge with the centre guideline on the presser foot. I then switched the needle position to the left so it is on the inside edge of the pocket and sew.
sew a colour block dress
Attach the pocket

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